More shocks (or not as the case may be)

Day 17 in Zlatoust, Iain and Debz are still there instead of crossing the border into Mongolia. Well, it’s all gone a bit wrong! The shocks arrived in Moscow on the Saturday and Motorrad Moscow did the required on the Monday – brilliant service – and gave them back to the courier (Pony Express) on Monday afternoon. When by Thursday there was still no info on the tracking system we contacted Irina at Motorrad and asked her if she had any info. The news she came back with was not good – the courier had lost the shocks!! Our hearts sank, this was terrible. We phoned John again at Revs Racing to find out how quickly Wilburs Germany could make us a new set and the response was ‘the next day’. In the meantime I was chasing Pony Express ( thank you Google translate) and they then said they’d found them at the airport. To cut a long story short, the result was that the courier refused to put them on the plane back to us as they were a hazardous item (which I accept but they flew into Moscow without anyone caring!) and would have to be returned by road. Road........we were told to expect them at the end of the next week. So, as I type this, the shocks are in Chelyabinsk, approx 100km away and we will hopefully get them tomorrow.  If we get them early enough, we will be back on the road tomorrow afternoon, if not, the following day.

We would like to say that the service we’ve had from John at Revs Racing (the official UK importer for Wilburs), Wilburs Germany and Motorrad Moscow (the official Russian importer for Wilburs) has been absolutely first class.

In between all this kafuffle, we had our tea at Natasha’s (one of the hotel cleaners) house. She first gave us a tour of the city’s highlights and then laid on a lovely spread for us. Again, with very little understandable language between us, we had a lovely time.

We will be glad to now head for Mongolia. This will take approx 10 days with no other mishaps. It will be tight for us to make it before our Mongolian visa expires but hopefully we will.

Shocked in Zlatoust!

On my last post, when I said we’d be on the road in a day or 2, what I actually should have written was a week or 2 L. The shock has been sent to the Moscow branch of Wilburs for them to sort it under warranty. We arrived here on Saturday night, Russia was on holiday on Monday and Tuesday (their National Day) so after speaking to The Midlands (UK – thanks to John at Revs Racing for his help) and Moscow on Wednesday, shock was removed and sent away on Thursday. It takes 3 days to get to Moscow, they’ll turn it around same day if possible and then 3 days back!  We in the UK are so used to things ‘next day’ because the island is so very small. So, realistically, it’ll be end of next week until we’re on the road again.

It was Iain’s (40^th...shhh) birthday yesterday and when Denis came to get him in the morning, he presented him with a parcel, all wrapped up in nice blue paper and bows. They gave him a lovely knife in its own leather sheath and documentation. It was made in Zlatoust so Iain was very pleased with it and he does like a good knife! The handle is made out of bark as far as we can understand and it’s a special local ‘recipe’ for the blade.

Mozzies, shocks and police

As we continue our journey north we have our first ‘meeting’ with the police. Iain had overtaken a lorry but was back on his own side of the road before the solid white line. You must not cross a solid white line in Russia, not even if you want to go into a petrol station on the other side of the road – it is a fineable offence. The officer who stopped us was trying to say we went over the white line. Iain put it that he had not. A lorry driver going the other way stopped – he is a biker as well (KTM Supermoto) and although he spoke no English either, between them all they agreed that we could go with no fine. Sweets were shared and we were on our way. Later we were given more help by a local biker who took us to a welder after the steering dampener snapped.  The steering dampener was tig welded and again, no payment was accepted. Riding a sidecar can be dangerous for others as well. We were parked on a street and a sports bike went past and he and his pillion were so busy tooting and waving to us that he didn't notice the traffic in front had stopped - he came to a stop shortly afterwards - up against the car in front! The bikers sorted themselves out and shot off before the car driver had even got out to assess the damage. A small dent I think. As no one was injured I can say it was quite funny to watch!

We stop to have lunch in a small town off the main road and whilst I am in the shop a local guy talks to Iain. He is gone by the time I come out but as we finish eating he comes back with a postcard of the area and invites us back to his house for a cuppa. As before, never refuse a cuppa so we enjoy Vladimir’s company whilst listening to early Abba and drinking tea.



It's black, it's in Russia - can you guess what it is? That's right, it's Guinness!

At the moment we are in Novozlatoust where we have met Dennis and Nadia who are local bikers. They have helped us out and we’ve spent a bit of time with them which has been great. We need to get a few things sorted out on the bike as the front shock is now leaking (Jake – we blame you for this as it was fine until you asked about it!) but should be on the road again in a day or 2. I don’t think I could get my helmet on anyway as I have a mozzie (I presume) bite on my forehead and it is quite swollen and sore.

So far, we have been overwhelmed by the friendliness of the people we are encountering. They are really making this trip special for us.

Shrapnel in Saratov

In Saratov, we need to sort out a few things on the bike and get insurance. We should have got this before now but better late than never! We look for a bike shop on the internet – there only seems to be one so we head there. It turns out to be a goth/rock shop (with a lot of lovely things but I’m not there to shop!) called Bike Style run by Oleysa and Sirius Drake but once I ask about brake fluid they lead me to another part of the shop, where they have the spares, leathers and helmets. They don’t have all of what we need but with a phone call Alexei arrives to help us out. In the meantime Oleysa has taken Iain to sort out the insurance on the bike. Before leaving the girls gift us each with a Russia bandana! We follow Alexei to his workshop. He sells bikes from there too so has a very good collection ranging from Suzuki DR250 Djebel (which is what I have at home) to a Dnepr sidecar with an amazing paint job. We return to Alexei’s the next morning as yesterday Iain only managed to bleed the sidecar brake and change the wheel bearing. Today he has to make a bracket for the lights, balance the carbs and other routine jobs and as he is working inside I am outside checking out the route for later that day. As I walk back into the garage I feel a sharp pain just below my chest and I assume I’ve been stung or bitten. On closer inspection I see a small piece of metal embedded in me! Iain was making a bracket for the bike using a cold chisel and as he hit it a piece of steel flew off and hit me – thankfully it didn’t go in anyone’s eye! Iain had to extract it carefully and then I cleaned up the blood - I played on this by the way, getting a shrapnel wound, bleeding and having a hole in my merino t-shirt!

1^st June – Really into Russia!

After entering Russia we travelled on smaller roads rather than ‘main’ roads and ended up in a bit of a quandary in one village. It had 5 roads leading away from it and the GPS was not behaving so we were unsure which road to take. So after trying each one and then deciding that was wrong and making our way back to the village we went up the road that had a military checkpoint on it. We didn’t think we’d get through but thought we ask for the correct road. As we approached they raised the barrier and we rode through. We were asked to stop but no documents were needed, they just wanted to find out about the trip. We were invited in for a cup of tea (one should never refuse a cup of tea!) and they offered to cook us sausage and egg but we declined the food as we had already eaten. We chatted as best we could with the use of our phrasebook and then after having tea, sweets and pictures taken we were on our way.   

They told us the road was in a bad state of repair so to be careful. They weren’t wrong but we made it to our next stop, a town called Mozdok.

On route to Mozdok we had another military checkpoint and several police checkpoints – never any issues just documents and a chat about the journey.  At the last police checkpoint, they kindly pointed us in the direction of a hotel. When we arrived I went inside to try and get a room. Tanya, the lady in charge was delighted to see me and grabbed my arm and took me to see everyone in the place to tell them I was from the UK and going to Magadan. One guy had seen us in the petrol station in Vladikavkaz and had already told them about us! Once sorted with a room, another guy said he’d show us the auto park where we could leave the bike. Auto parks in Russia are a safe compound where you pay a small amount to leave your vehicle but it has 24 hour security. He’d give us a lift back to the hotel in his Lada – well, not before he’d taken us on a whistle stop tour of the town, showing us statues and memorials whilst all the time playing his favourite Russian folk tune at full blast. Our ears were ringing!

 The next morning we stopped at a local garage to see if he had something to sort out the shock on the sidecar wheel, which he did and took no payment for. We offered us tea and as we tried to communicate I pulled out my Russian phrasebook to which he pointed out that he was Ossetian, not Russian. Book away and sign language did the job. We took pictures of him and his colleague on the outfit before saying goodbye. If all of Russia is as friendly as this, we thought, we’ll be ok!

As we’ve headed north we’ve stayed in various places ranging from a knocking shop to a very nice hotel and have caught bits of Lord of The Rings 1, 2 + 3 (on consecutive nights) dubbed in Russian. It doesn’t matter that we can’t understand it though because the visuals of these films are fabulous. Also, no matter what time of the day you are on the road, it’s busy. We stop to help a guy on a broken down scooter in the middle of no-where but can’t do anything at the roadside so tow him 20km to a garage so he can get help.

30-31^st May - BMW’s Galore – Georgia

It’s hard work riding the sidecar and trying not to slow the other riders down and this was taking its toll on Iain’s shoulder so we decided in Georgia that we would catch up with the other guys later on. We were heading for the Kazbegi border crossing with Russia and hoped to stay just short of it that night.  On the road, we came across Klaus from Germany riding a BMW R100GS, he had been in Russia and entered Georgia that day. A bit further on we met 3 guys from Brno in Czech on BMW GS’s. They had been to the border but as they didn’t have visas, couldn’t enter.

Further up the Military Highway there is a viewpoint with a colourful mural so we stopped for a look and met a couple, Eric and Gabi, who were also on a BMW GS.  We’d seen more folk touring on bikes on that one day than we had for the rest of the trip put together – that says a lot for Georgia I think.

It was getting late by then and the thunder and lightning was starting so we decided we would try for a hotel in the village we had just passed through and that hopefully we’d get a better deal if we both went to the same place. We set off first and as we got back into the village the hailstones started to pound down on us. We took refuge in a cafe – we couldn’t believe it, it was white!

Eric and Gabi found a nice hotel and indeed they would give us a better price if we all stayed there. We got our wet stuff off and spent a lovely evening together and found out it was Eric’s birthday that day too. They opened a bottle on homemade wine given to them by a Georgian farmer and we enjoyed a glass!

Eric and Gabi waved us off in the morning as they were heading south. The Military Highway in Georgia has lovely views and we were soon arriving at the border crossing. It all went smoothly enough, on both sides, with the Russian side wanting to look in our luggage but this was not a problem and after Iain had filled a few forms in for the bike we were on our way – in Russia!! We couldn’t actually believe we were riding along a road in Russia.

Goodbye Turkey

Tuesday 29 May 2012

We were heading towards the Turkey/Georgia border crossing and it was like Turkey was saying “see what I’ve got to offer, you don’t need to leave and go to any other country, there’s plenty for you to see here”. We rode through some of the most amazing scenery we’ve ever experienced.  The mountains towered at either side of us and the river meandered down the valley, cutting its course through the rock.  We felt so insignificant, like ants running down a storm drain. 

 We rounded a corner and the road had been closed. We managed to establish that it would be shut for about an hour so Darren got the stove out to make a brew but a kindly lorry driver had already been to the hut and got us all hot drinks. As the traffic started to tail back, folk were coming out of their cars to come over and have a look at the bikes. This is something that happens everywhere, especially if you keep off the tourist trails, as we do. Darren decided it would be a good idea to have a stone throwing competition and we had to throw a stone and hit the rock on other side of the river. Well, as you can imagine, me and Leigh got about half way across the river but Darren and Iain were getting just short of the rock. One of the Turkish lads in the queue decided he would have a go and promptly threw a stone half way up the rock on the other side: Turkey 1 – England 0. Much hilarity (and excuses!) followed.

                                                                Free tea at the petrol stations

As time was passing, we pulled into the town on Artvin and met a local biker who showed us a hotel to stay in and then met us later and we went for a meal and a drink.

Wednesday 30 May 2012

We left Artvin to head for Posof where we were meeting up with Will to cross over into Georgia. The crossing was easy and we stopped in the first town and a bloke came over to chat. We asked about a hotel with parking and he jumped in his car and showed us the way. It’s very new, no sign and somehow it’s ended up with 4 of us in one room and Will in a room by himself! Again they’ve gone so far out of their way to accommodate us, it’s unreal! Also, the lightning tonight has been spectacular - no rain, no thunder , just a light show to remember. As beautiful as it is, I do prefer a sunny day.

We love Turkey!

We arrived in Istanbul, through the manic traffic, to a very warm welcome from Adil and Mehmet of Istanbul Bike Club. We were able to leave our bikes in their clubhouse and rent an apartment up above.  The following day, Mehmet gave us a guided tour of Istanbul, taking in, amongst other things, The Blue Mosque, The Grand Bazaar and The Spice Bazaar, all in glorious sunshine. Now, we’re not lovers of cities but we really enjoyed Istanbul, for as big as it is, it never really felt too crowded.  Belle and Nadine arrived that night too – it was great to see them again after the Scoots trip. The next day was Adil’s birthday but he gave his day up to take us places – nothing is too much trouble for these guys. At night there was a birthday party and we met lots of the club members. When it comes to bikes, language (or the lack of it) is not a problem.  There were other things we wanted to see in Turkey so we left the bike club the following day, taking the ferry out of Istanbul (easier and much prettier than riding the motorways) and arrived in Asia!

We headed down to Goreme, which is the next town to Cappadocia. On the way down, we came across this amazing site.

The area of Cappadocia is famous for the caves in the rocks. They are amazing. 

 From there we headed down to Sanliurfa where we’d meet Enkar and Hussan. We were given their details by Mehmet in Istanbul and Enkar came and met us and took us to Hassan’s house where he kindly let us stay. On the ride down we came across an accident where a lorry had gone off the road (carrying a combine harvester - bet you're all singing The Wurzels now!). Now, the crane was trying to lift the wreckage and folk are just wandering around, under the arm, stopping on the other side of the road and coming over for a look and no one cared. We didn’t want to sit too long so Darren asked the kind policeman if we could just ride round the lorry in the drainage ditch and as he drew on his cigarette, he just nodded and waved us on.  Such a relaxed outlook. We also keep getting free tea and coffee at garages we stop at, whether we are buying anything or have just stopped for a rest.

We visited Gobleki Tepe which archaeologists are working on. It dates back to 10000 BC – 12000 years old! We then head for Mount Nemrut which is renowned for the figures just below the summit. We arrived in the car park just as sun was setting and there was no way we’d be up and down before dark so we stayed up there. 4am next morning, we were up and climbing the final ascent to the summit to watch the sunrise, which was absolutely breathtaking (as was the climb!). It was well worth the effort. Once the sun was up, we were able to have a good look round at the figures. It must be amazing for archaeologists to make these finds.

We are well on the way north now and we hope to be in Georgia in 2/3 days time.

Turkey has been a constant surprise for us both. The country is stunning but also the warmth of the Turkish folk is never ending. Thank you to you all for making our Turkish journey so wonderful.

UNCLE BULGARIA HERE WE COME

We left Poland in a blaze of sunshine! We crossed the border into Slovakia through the mountains. The area is a ski resort and the roads were real fun. Into Slovakia we continued to be blessed with lovely scenery and weather.  The last time we travelled through Slovakia we stuck to the motorway – boring – but this time it was a real treat. Into Hungary and the weather and temperature took a nose dive. Thankfully we didn’t have to far to ride to reach our destination for that evening – Magyar Route 66 Biker Guesthouse and Campsite. The site is in Szilvasvarad and is run by a Dutch guy called Leen. When we arrived, he was out taking his Hungarian visitors on a bike tour but arrived shortly after.   The site has a swimming pool, a bar area, a grill area – it has everything you need! Leen brought us a welcome beer and after tea we joined him and his friends for a drink. We were given a shot of some Hungarian drink. They only gave us a small shot, which I think was wise!

In the morning, we set off in our waterproofs as it was still damp and cold. We headed straight for Romania. Just through the border and we met a couple with familiar accents – they were originally from Consett - just down the road from Sunderland.  Romania is a beautiful country. It also has a lot of stray dogs roaming around. They tend to ignore cars but for some reason the sound of the bike must anger/excite them and they chase you. Now that may sound funny but having experienced it the last time we were in Romania, it can be quite daunting. Having a barking hound chasing you – you’re trying to get away from the dog, watch the road, watch the Romanian drivers, not get the dog under your wheels.  On one occasion this time I thought the dog was going to leap onto the sidecar! On the other side, some of them are quite cute and I forget that they are manky and stroke them (then wash my hands). With the amount of dogs roaming around there is the inevitable road deaths and I still find it difficult when we see dead dogs lying at the side of the road.

The Transfagarasan Pass was beckoning and we stayed at a campsite just a few km north of the start.  The campsite owner told us the pass was shut. It was due to open on 15^th May (the next day) but it was staying shut longer. We went up anyway and as expected the ‘closed’ sign was up. We spoke to one of the souvenir shop owners and he said it was closed due to snow further up but that we could go up and take a few photos then come down so that’s what we did and it was well worth it. The road was littered with rock falls and snow was covering half the road in places but the views are out of this world. We got up to just over 5000 feet before rounding a corner and being met with snow on both sides of the road. It had been cleared but snow had slipped from higher up and came down and blocked the road again.  This now means we will have to come back to Romania at a later date so we can do the pass.

 

 Leaving Romania we had torrential rain accompanied by lightning – beautiful but a wee bit scary too! As we entered Bulgaria there was no let up in the weather and it continued all the way to Moto camp Bulgaria in Idilevo, where we were meeting up with Will. By the time we arrived there the thunder was also filling the air. I don’t think I’ve experienced thunder and lightning that went on for so long. We were greeted by Polly, Ivo and Peach and of course Will. Polly put the heater on in our room while we had a cuppa to warm up and we enjoyed our first evening in Bulgaria in lovely company. We are hoping also to catch up with some other friends while we are here but they have had real weather problems coming down the other side of Europe,  Darren and Leigh have had their tent wrecked in the storms – so not sure if we’ll see them or not. Belle and Nads were to be coming here but have had to change their route after being stuck in Sarajevo due to snow so hopefully we’ll catch up with them in Istanbul.

Wandering Willies Win!

We boarded the ferry, dumped our stuff and then straight up onto the deck to watch the shores of North and South Tyneside disappear and to wave goodbye to the good folk that had come to see us away.  We then went to the bar where a quiz was just about to start. We’ll have a go at that we thought and would you believe it, the wandering willies (for that was us) won! A bottle of champagne the welcome prize. Will opened it, the cork stotted of the roof then my head!!

3 ladies came over and asked if we were Iain + Debz, now this is the second time complete strangers have approached and called us by name (the first being in The Gambia) and I can tell you, it’s strange but brings a smile to our faces! They were from the Harley Davidson club if Utrecht and had been to Scotland and stayed with friends of ours, Andy & Maya. They had filled them in our trip and told them to look out for us.

From Holland, through Germany and into Poland. We were headed for Oswiecim to visit the Museum of Auschwitz.  What a moving experience. We’ve all seen the documentaries about this place but to actually stand looking at piles of peoples belongings, knowing their fate, is like nothing either of us have experienced before. I could type for hours about what I saw today but I don’t feel my words would do it justice.